words, words, words

For the past two days I’ve been seeing a bunch of cool animals in the lineup. Things I’ve never seen before that close in. A tuna cruised through, as well as a number of flying fish. Deep sea pelagic species like those are normally in water that is, well, deep.
The surf has dropped. It is still close to double overhead, though.

(click for bigger image)
I am also shot a brief QuickTime
movie. (Hence, it is not me.)
Of course, now that it has dropped, I break my board. Go figure.
It will be fixed by tomorrow afternoon. I need to get a smaller board to ride on days like today. I got a couple of really good barrels.

On another note, I bumped into my Argentine friend, Pepe at Zicatela beach today. He was singing the praises of Barra de la Cruz, a surfspot 3 hours south of here. It sounds really good, I am going to have to go down there and check it out for a few days.

I had the biggest wipeout of my life this morning. My first wave of the day, I dropped in too late and nosed my board at the bottom. I was bounced off the sand and then tumbled for what felt like forever. I had to open my eyes and swim toward the light. I got a quick breath and then almost instantly hit by the next of the 4 other waves of the set (all of which were double overhead+ and chucking barrels). Since I didn’t have a leash, I had to swim to shore, collect my board and paddled back out, I got about 10 waves, and they were all very very big.
The surf here has picked up quite a bit. There are number of Hawaiian pros out in the water and everything was turned up an notch.
Of course, right when everyone started to take themselves too seriously a guy paddled out on a longboard with a luchadore mask. Mexico.

Here is my new (to me) board, a 7′10″ Local Motion. Cost 2000 pesos.

I’ll try to take some pictures of the waves tonight.

Ah, it feel so good to be back to someplace warm with good waves. I got here yesterday and the surf is pumping.
My first day here it was a bit mixed up, but it cleaned up this morning and was solid overhead barrels. Good fun.

I am flying back to Mexico tomorrow to go surfing in Puerto Escondido again.