Olas grandes.
I had the biggest wipeout of my life this morning. My first wave of the day, I dropped in too late and nosed my board at the bottom. I was bounced off the sand and then tumbled for what felt like forever. I had to open my eyes and swim toward the light. I got a quick breath and then almost instantly hit by the next of the 4 other waves of the set (all of which were double overhead+ and chucking barrels). Since I didn’t have a leash, I had to swim to shore, collect my board and paddled back out, I got about 10 waves, and they were all very very big.
The surf here has picked up quite a bit. There are number of Hawaiian pros out in the water and everything was turned up an notch.
Of course, right when everyone started to take themselves too seriously a guy paddled out on a longboard with a luchadore mask. Mexico.
Here is my new (to me) board, a 7′10″ Local Motion. Cost 2000 pesos.
I’ll try to take some pictures of the waves tonight.